Seamless Gutters in Texas: What They Cost and How to Size Them Right

Most standard Texas homes like yours do well with 5-inch seamless aluminum gutters. Step up to 6-inch if your roof is steep, large, tile, or metal, or if you have watched a 5-inch gutter sheet water over the edge in a hard rain. Add gutter guards when tree cover keeps clogging the runs or when the gutters are on a second story you would rather not climb to.

The matrix is the short version. Your answer comes down to two things: how much roof drains into your gutter, and how many trees hang over it.

A gutter's only job is to catch what your roof sheds and move it away from your house. A big or steep roof throws a lot of water at the eave fast, and a 5-inch gutter can only take so much before it overflows at the fascia, exactly where you do not want water. That is why we size the gutter to your roof, not to a catalog default. Here is what we walk your roofline to check before we tell you 5-inch or 6-inch:

• Your roof's pitch: the steeper it is, the faster water hits the eave and the more capacity you need.
• The square footage draining to each run: the more roof that drains to one gutter, the bigger that gutter has to be.
• Where 6-inch earns its extra cost on your home, and where a 5-inch is all your roofline actually needs.

In Texas, seamless aluminum gutters run $11 to $12 per linear foot for 5-inch and $13 to $15.50 for 6-inch, installed with hidden hangers, sealed miters, and downspouts. A typical single-story home needs about 150 to 200 feet, so your full job likely lands between roughly $1,700 and $3,500.

Your gutters are priced by the linear foot, not the square foot the way your roof is, and that catches most homeowners off guard.

Updated July 2026. Texas residential pricing, per linear foot (never per square foot). Every install includes hidden hangers, sealed miters, downspouts, and a full flow test. Your price moves with story height, roofline complexity, how many downspouts the runs need, and whether the fascia behind the old gutter has to be repaired first.

To ballpark your own footage, add up the length of every roof edge on your house that needs a gutter. A simple rectangle home might be 130 to 160 feet; add eaves, dormers, and porches and yours can climb past 250. Because gutters follow your roof edge and not the roof area, the roof-area calculator we use for replacements does not apply to your gutters, which is why a real number comes from measuring your house, not a formula.

Repair your gutters when the runs are still straight and sound and the trouble is a leaking miter, a loose hanger, or a clog. Replace them when your gutters sag or pull off the fascia, the seams split, the metal is rusted or dented, or they are simply too small for your roof and overflow every storm. If the fascia or soffit behind them is soft, that gets fixed first, whichever way you go.

Sometimes a reseal and new hangers buy you years. Sometimes the wood behind your gutter is the real story.

Here is what actually sends water where it should not be. Watch for these signs:

• Water sheeting over the edge in a storm, which usually means your gutter is undersized, clogged, or pitched wrong.
• Peeling paint or soft, rotted fascia and soffit behind your gutter, the classic sign water has been sitting where it should not.
• Gutters pulling away from your house because the hangers or the wood behind them have let go.
• Pooling water, mulch washout, or eroded soil along your foundation under a downspout.
• Rust streaks, cracked seams, or split joints on your older sectional gutters.
• Cracks or moisture at your slab or foundation, the expensive downstream cost of years of bad drainage.

That last one is the reason gutters matter more than they look. When runoff dumps against your foundation instead of draining away, Texas clay soil swells and shrinks with the water, and that movement is one of the most common causes of the foundation cracks and slab problems you never want to see. A $2,500 gutter job is cheap insurance against a five-figure foundation repair on your home. Where the yard slopes back toward the house, burying the downspout drainage carries that water well clear of the slab instead of dumping it at the foundation. If you want the failure point behind a stubborn leak traced properly, our roof repair team handles the fascia and flashing side of the same problem.

Gutters are the cheapest part of protecting the most expensive things the house has — the foundation, the siding, the ground it sits on. Skip them and you pay for that shortcut somewhere you weren't looking.

The gutters at the home-improvement store come in 10-foot sections you snap together, and every joint is a future leak in your roofline. Seamless gutters solve that at the source.

Seamless gutters are formed from one continuous coil of aluminum, cut to the exact length of each run by a roll-forming machine at your house. The only seams are at the corners, where we lap and seal the miters, and at the downspout outlets. Fewer joints means far fewer places for water to get behind your fascia, and a cleaner line along it.

Having a roofer hang them, rather than a general handyman, matters because your gutters are part of your roof edge, not a bolt-on accessory. They tie into your drip edge and your fascia, and they have to carry the exact volume of water your roof sheds. We size the gutter and the downspouts to that load, set the pitch so water actually moves, and make sure your roof's edge details and the gutter work as one system. Aluminum is our standard material because it will not rust like steel or crack in the heat like vinyl, and the color is baked on so it holds up on your house under the Texas sun.

No pressure, no guesswork. Here is the whole thing in three steps.

1. You book a free measure. We come out, measure every run, check the fascia and soffit behind the old gutters, and talk through 5-inch versus 6-inch and whether guards make sense for your trees.
2. We send a written estimate. You get the footage, the system, the downspout count, and a flat price in writing, usually within a day or two. Nothing is verbal.
3. You decide, and we install, usually in a day. Most homes are measured, formed on site, hung, and cleaned up in a single day, and the work carries our workmanship warranty.

Here is what happens on your install day in more detail, if you want it. We repair any rotted fascia on your house first, because new gutters on bad wood is money wasted. We roll-form each run to length on site, hang it on hidden brackets fastened into solid wood, and set the pitch at about a quarter-inch of fall per 10 feet so water runs to the outlets instead of standing. We add downspouts where your water load calls for them, as a rule of thumb one for every 30 to 40 feet of gutter, and route them to carry water well away from your foundation. Then we run water through the whole system to confirm it drains clean, and we haul off every scrap under our Clean Site Promise™.

Gutters are only half the job. If the downspouts dump water right back against the foundation, all you've done is move the problem six inches. I decide where the water ends up before I hang a single section.

When you hire a gutter installer, you are not hiring a logo. You are hiring the people who will be on your roofline and the company that stands behind the work afterward.

• Your estimator walks the roof, measures the runs, and checks the fascia before quoting, so the number you get is the number the house actually needs.
• Your project manager is one point of contact from the estimate through the final flow test, even on a one-day job.
• The install crew we deploy and supervise does the roll-forming and hanging under that project manager, and the work is inspected before we call it done.
• Randal and Preston Williams own ARP. Randal is COO, his son Preston is President. Family-owned and locally accountable.

ARP is a GAF Certified Plus Contractor and an Atlas PRO+ Platinum Select Contractor, holds an A+ BBB rating with zero unresolved complaints, and is a CTRCA member, backed by 5,000+ completed Texas projects and 300+ five-star reviews.

Whether you choose ARP or someone else, ask every gutter installer these three. The answers tell you more than any star rating.

1. "Show me the sizing math before you quote." A real installer measures the roof draining to each run and tells you why it is 5-inch or 6-inch, and how many downspouts the runs need. If the quote is one flat number from the curb with no sizing conversation, you are buying a guess.

2. "Are these seamless, cut on site, and how are the miters sealed?" Seamless runs formed at your house leak far less than snap-together sections from a store. Ask where the only seams are, at the corners and outlets, and how those corners are lapped and sealed. Vague answers mean sectional gutters and future leaks in your roofline.

3. "Will you check and repair the fascia before you hang the new gutters?" New gutters bolted onto your rotted wood fail early. A good installer inspects your fascia and soffit first and prices any repair up front, in writing, rather than discovering it mid-job.

Straight answer: for some jobs we are not the cheapest call, and we would rather tell you that here.

We're a great fit if you:

• Want the gutters sized to your actual roof, not a one-size default
• Want seamless runs, sealed miters, and the fascia checked before we hang anything
• Want a written scope and a flat price before work starts
• Want the install to carry a real workmanship warranty

We're probably not the right fit if you:

• Just need a short section patched for under our minimum scope
• Want snap-together sections from the store hung as cheaply as possible
• Are choosing purely on the lowest number

Undersized gutters overflow, and overflow is what rots your fascia and cracks your foundation. Book a free measure and we'll size the gutters to your roof, check the wood behind them, and give you a written flat price. No pressure, and no number until we've seen the house.

Get a Free Gutter Estimate →

📞 (210) 714-0040

Financing available. Ask about options at your estimate.